Mari cuisine — the traditional dishes of the Mari (nnov.ec) people (the Mari (nnov.ec), or Cheremis), which once formed the basis of their diet. The national character of Mari cuisine is created by dishes made from hemp or flax seed (noshmo kinde, katlama, noshmo peremech, etc.).
The essence of the phenomenon
Mari folk cuisine is based on the gifts of forests, fields, rivers and lakes — fish, game, mushrooms, all kinds of herbs and berries (hogweed, lingonberry, cranberry, rowan).
A characteristic feature of many Mari dishes is their sour or salty taste (lashka, cucumbers in brine, pura, tuara, koshtymo kol shur). Honey is used in Mari cuisine more widely than in any other. Spices and seasonings are used in Mari cuisine only sparingly.
Reve da olma umbal dene (turnip with apples and sour cream)
Raw turnip is grated, apples are cut into slices, everything is mixed and dressed with sour cream and sugar. Turnip 75, apples 80, sour cream 30, sugar 15.
Sholtymo sterlyad (sterlet salad)
Potatoes boiled in their skins and cucumbers are cut into slices, apples and hard-boiled eggs into wedges. The sterlet is rubbed with salt and spices, then chilled and cut into small bars. The ingredients are mixed together and cranberries are added. Horseradish sauce with sour cream is served separately. Sterlet 110, potatoes 10, cucumbers 90, egg 1/5 pc., apples 20, cranberries 15, horseradish sauce 50.
«Lake Tair» appetizer
Canned fish is placed in the centre of a salad bowl, garnishes of boiled carrots, boiled eggs, onion and herbs are arranged around it, all of it is poured over with fish aspic stock — lanspig — and chilled. Horseradish sauce with vinegar is served separately. Canned fish in oil 25, gelatine 4, egg 1/2 pc., carrots 10, green onion or peas 5, onion 5, horseradish sauce with vinegar 20.
Shurashan studen (meat jelly with grain)
Prepared mutton heads and trotters are washed, chopped into small pieces, placed in a pot, covered with cold water, onion is added, and they are simmered over low heat for 6 hours, skimming off the foam. Meat trimmings are added 1.5 hours before the end of cooking. The flesh is separated from the cooked offal, finely chopped or put through a mincer, combined with the stock, wheat or barley grain, salted, seasoned with spices, boiled for 40–50 minutes and poured into moulds. Trotters, head, trimmings 100, onion 5, wheat or barley grain 5, bay leaf, pepper, salt.
Seretan shur (shchi with greens)
The greens of the plant called "seretan" are sorted, washed several times, finely shredded, dropped into boiling liquid and cooked for 10–15 minutes. Then potatoes cut into wedges are added and the dish is cooked until done. Five minutes before the end of cooking the shchi is seasoned with sautéed flour and finely chopped onion. Served with sour cream and sprinkled with dill. Greens 110, potatoes 170, wheat flour 5, onion 20, fat 5, sour cream 15, dill 2, or green onion 5, salt.
Poldranvuch shur (hogweed soup)
Hogweed leaves are sorted, washed, finely chopped, put into boiling stock or water and cooked until half done. Then potatoes cut into slices are added and the soup is cooked until done. At the end of cooking green onion, salt and spices are added. When serving, the soup is dressed with sour cream and sprinkled with dill. Hogweed 110, potatoes 220, onion 5, dill 2, sour cream 20.
Shulyo shurashan shur parenge da ushmen dene (oat soup with potatoes and swede)
Washed oat grain and swede cut into strips are put into a pan of water and boiled for 15 minutes, then potatoes cut into slices, onion in rings, salt and spices are added and everything is cooked until done. Sour cream and herbs are added when serving. Potatoes 130, oat grain 25, swede 40, onion 25, herbs 5, sour cream 10, salt.
Shopo lashka (soup with sour dough)
A stiff sponge dough is prepared. It is rolled out into a sheet at least 1.5 cm thick and cut into long strips, which in turn are cut crosswise into pieces of 15–20 g (they can be rolled into balls). The pieces (or balls) are put into boiling salted water, and potatoes cut into cubes (or wedges) are added. Five minutes before the soup is done it is seasoned with sautéed onion and beaten eggs, and salted. Served with sour cream. Wheat (or rye) flour 60, yeast 2, egg 1/2 pc., potatoes 155, sour cream 20, onion 15, butter 5, salt.
Kolan lashka (fish noodles)
A stiff unleavened dough is made, rolled out into a thin flatbread and cut into noodles. Large fish (bream, perch, pike perch, sterlet) are cleaned, rinsed, cut into rounds, covered with cold water, brought to a boil; the foam is skimmed off, the fish is salted and cooked until done. The fish is then taken out, and peeled potatoes (whole) and onion cut into rings are put into the broth. The noodles are added 5–7 minutes before the potatoes are done. The noodles, fish and potatoes are served separately. Fish 125, potatoes 125, onion 35, salt; for the noodles: flour 40, egg 1/2, water 20, salt.
Village-style cutlet
The prepared pork is put through a meat grinder twice. The potatoes and onion are cut into small cubes. Water, salt and pepper are added, everything is mixed thoroughly, the cutlets are shaped and breaded in breadcrumbs. They are fried on both sides until done. Pork 60, potatoes 20, onion 5, water 10, spices to taste, breadcrumbs 10, margarine for frying 5, salt.
Shurashan tuymoshyl (Tair-style beef)
Boneless beef or pork is put through a meat grinder twice and combined with a thick milk rice porridge. A raw beaten egg is added to the mixture, everything is stirred, and the resulting mass is placed into moulds greased beforehand with butter. The surface is smoothed and sprinkled with grated cheese, then the dish is baked. It is served with a mixed vegetable garnish. Before serving it is drizzled with butter or meat juices. Beef 135, or medium-fat pork 115, dry rice 10, egg 1/2, butter 10, cheese 5, milk 30 (for the porridge), salt.
Shchyl podkogylyo (boiled meat pies)
Unleavened dough is rolled out thin and shaped into crescent-shaped pies filled with raw minced meat seasoned with finely chopped onion, salt and pepper. The pies are then boiled in salted water, taken out, drizzled with butter and served hot. Wheat flour 70, egg 1/6, pork 50, beef 50, onion 15, butter 10, pepper to taste, salt.
Zharitlymeshoksh (Tair-style liver)
The liver is freed of its membrane, lightly beaten, cut into pieces and fried with salt pork cut into sticks. Pickled cucumbers are then seeded, cut into wedges, lightly braised until half done and added to the liver; salt is added, pepper is sprinkled on, and everything is stewed with red sauce and garlic added. It is served with potatoes and sprinkled with green onion. Pork liver 120, back fat 20, fats 10, pickled cucumbers 25, pepper to taste, red sauce 30, garlic 2, green onion 5, garnish 50, salt.
Chyve moksh ris depe (chicken liver baked with rice)
The liver is cut into 2–3 pieces and fried in butter with finely chopped onion. The rice is rinsed, dried, lightly fried in butter in a saucepan, then covered with hot water; sautéed tomato is added and it is simmered covered over low heat for 1–1.5 hours until the liquid has boiled away. Half of the rice is laid in a frying pan, the fried liver is placed on it and covered with the remaining rice, which is levelled off, drizzled with butter and baked in the oven. Chicken liver 80, rice 60, tomato 5, butter 15, onion 18, water 100, salt.
Shyrdan (boiled sausage)
The meat is cut into pieces of 30–40 g, previously dried oat groats are added, along with onion cut into wedges, pepper, salt and a bay leaf; water is poured in and everything is mixed thoroughly. A cleaned stomach is stuffed with this meat filling, its edges are brought together and sewn up tightly with thread, giving it the round shape of a small loaf. The surface is rubbed with salt and the item is placed on a greased frying pan or in a not very deep dish, so that it can be tightly covered with a lid. The shyrdan is then put into the oven and baked for 1.5–2 hours, almost until the meat products are done.
After that the shyrdan is put into the oven a second time, but now at a temperature that will dry it gradually to the lowest possible moisture and at the same time bring it to full readiness. Per 1 kg of yield: stomach 240, beef 1 kg, or pork 800, or mutton 900, onion 100, or garlic 15, oat groats 110, water 180–200, pepper, bay leaf, salt.
Sokta (boiled homemade sausage)
Mutton, beef or pork intestines are thoroughly cleaned and rinsed. The internal fat (mutton or pork) is cut into small cubes. The onion is shredded and sautéed. Sorted and well-rinsed groats (oat, pearl barley), the cut fat and the onion are mixed together, broth, salt and pepper are added and everything is mixed thoroughly. The prepared intestines are loosely stuffed with this filling and both ends are tied off with thread. They are boiled in salted water at a gentle simmer until done (40–50 minutes). It is recommended to add baked pieces of onion and pepper to the water before boiling. The finished sokta is served hot, and before serving it is fried until a golden crust forms. Per 1 kg of sokta: fat 230, intestines 180, groats 340, broth 500, onion 100, fat for frying 20, pepper to taste, salt.
Sosna-shylankuktymo parenge (potatoes stewed with pork)
The pork is cut into pieces of 20–30 g. The prepared potatoes, carrots and onion are cut into cubes. A layer of potatoes is placed in a deep dish, on it the pork, then onion, carrots, garlic, peppercorns and a bay leaf. This is repeated several times. Then salted water is poured in (it should cover the products) and everything is stewed, covered, until done. When serving, it is sprinkled with chopped herbs and drizzled with the sauce formed during the stewing. Pork 75, potatoes 160, onion 30, carrots 10, garlic 1.8, green onion 5, dill 1.5, spices to taste, water or broth 120, salt.
Shyl puchymysh (porridge with meat)
The beef (or pork) is cut into pieces of 20–25 g. The millet (or buckwheat) is sorted and rinsed thoroughly, the onion is finely chopped. Everything is mixed, covered with water, salted and stewed in the oven until done. Beef 80, or pork 75, millet 115, or buckwheat 140, water 210, onion 20, salt.
Tuvyrtysh podkogylyo (boiled pies with curd cheese and potatoes)
Peeled potatoes are boiled in salted water, then the water is drained and the potatoes are dried and puréed. Dry puréed full-fat curd cheese, melted butter and salt are added. Everything is mixed well. Unleavened dough is rolled out into a thin sheet, the filling is placed on it and the items are shaped into crescents, with the edges pinched in a fan pattern. They are boiled in salted boiling water. They are served with butter or with boiled milk. Wheat flour 65, egg 6, dry full-fat curd cheese 50, potatoes 50, butter for the filling 5, salt.
Nuzhymo parenge pelmen (potato dumplings)
Grated raw potatoes are lightly squeezed out and mixed with oat or wheat flour, eggs and salt. The mass is divided into round flat cakes and filling is placed in the middle of each. The cakes are folded in half, giving the item a crescent shape, and deep-fried. The filling is made as follows: pork fat is cut into small cubes, finely chopped onion, black pepper and salt are added and everything is mixed thoroughly. The dumplings are served with sour cream. Potatoes 350, wheat or oat flour 25, egg 1/2, onion 30, pork fat 50, sour cream 15.
Mushroom dumplings
Fresh porcini or dried mushrooms are boiled, shredded onion, salt and pepper are added and everything is mixed. A stiff dough is kneaded from flour, eggs, water and salt, rolled into a ball, covered with a damp towel and left to rest for 30–40 minutes. The dumplings are shaped with the mushroom filling. They are boiled in salted water. They are served with butter or sour cream. Fresh mushrooms 125 or dried 30, onion 35, pepper, salt; for the dough: wheat flour 60, egg 1/2, water 30, salt.
Muno dene zharitlyme pongo (mushrooms fried with egg)
The prepared mushrooms are fried in butter in a hot pan for 10–15 minutes, stirred from time to time with a spoon. Then salt to taste and an egg-and-milk mixture are added and the frying continues until done. Shortly before the end of the frying, the pan is put into the oven for 5 minutes. When serving, the mushrooms are drizzled with butter and sprinkled with herbs. Fresh mushrooms 300, egg 1/5, milk 15, butter or vegetable oil 10, green onion 5, butter for drizzling 5, dill, salt.
Pulashka muno (eggs with milk)
The eggs are beaten into a smooth mass, then thinned with fresh milk and salted to taste. The mass is poured into a dish and baked until it thickens (15–20 minutes). The finished dish is served hot in the same vessel it was cooked in. Egg 1/2, milk 115, fat 5, salt.
Tuara (dry curd cakes)
Dry full-fat pressed curd cheese is mixed with sour cream and eggs, salt is added and everything is stirred. From the stiff curd dough, cakes 8–10 cm in diameter and 2–3 cm thick are shaped, laid on a buttered baking sheet, brushed with clarified butter (or eggs) and baked over low heat in the oven for 1–1.5 hours. After that the item is dried at 40–50°. It is served with tea. Dry full-fat curd cheese 190, sour cream 20, egg 11, salt 3, clarified butter 3.
Cabbage rolls with curd cheese
The cabbage is stripped of damaged leaves, the stalk is removed and the head is put into boiling salted water for 10 minutes (at a gentle simmer). The head is then taken apart and the leaf ribs are trimmed down to the thickness of the leaf. A filling of curd cheese and finely chopped boiled eggs is wrapped in the prepared cabbage leaves; they are fried in a pan, then transferred to a baking tray, covered with sour cream and baked. Cabbage 250, curd cheese 90, egg 1/2, clarified butter 10, sour cream 30, salt.
Turnip with apples and sour cream
Raw turnip is grated, apples cut into slices are added, and it is dressed with sour cream and sugar. Turnip 100, apples 45, sour cream 30, sugar 5.
Koman melna (three-layer pancakes)
Stiff unleavened dough is rolled out into a thin flatbread 1.5–2 mm thick, matching the size of the pan. The flatbread is lightly browned in the oven, then spread with a thick mixture of oat flour, uncurdled milk (soured milk or kefir) and sour cream. The pancake is browned again and then spread with a third layer, consisting of oat groats that have been soaked in sour cream for 8–10 hours. After that the pancakes are baked, brushed with clarified butter or butter and served hot. For the 1st layer: rye or wheat flour 30, egg 1/3, salt; for the 2nd layer: oat flour or semolina 5, milk (soured milk or kefir) 16, sour cream 10; for the 3rd layer: oat groats 15, sour cream 25.
Noshmo kinde (hemp bread)
Dry hemp seed is lightly roasted in an oven or in a frying pan, then pounded in a mortar and sifted through a sieve. Stale rye bread is cut into small pieces, combined with the sifted hemp flour and mixed thoroughly; balls weighing 150 g each are formed, dipped in milk and baked for 5 minutes on a baking sheet greased with vegetable oil. Served as a dish in its own right or with first courses. Hemp seed 150, rye bread 80, milk 20.
Sukyr kinde (a confection)
A sponge yeast dough is prepared, into which sorted and washed cranberries (or lingonberries, rowanberries, guelder-rose berries) and 2/3 of the honey are added, and everything is mixed well. Oval loaves are then shaped and placed on a greased baking sheet. They are left to prove for 10-15 minutes, brushed with honey and baked. Oat flour (barley or wheat) 530, honey 180, margarine 60, egg 1 pc., milk 100, cranberries (or lingonberries, rowanberries, guelder-rose berries) 40, pressed yeast 15, water for the dough 80, fat for greasing 10, salt.
Uyacha (Kolobok)
Small pieces weighing 5-7 g each are cut from yeast or unleavened dough, shaped like flattened plums and fried in a little fat until golden. They are then lifted out with a colander and, after the oil has drained off, placed for 2-3 minutes in a pot of honey. Served hot or cold with tea. Wheat or oat flour 70, oil 15, honey 5.
Turismo toryk vud (curd drink)
Dry curd is rubbed smooth while cold boiled water or milk is poured in in a thin stream until it reaches the consistency of cream, and the drink is left to stand in an enamelled vessel for 2-3 hours. Pasteurised skimmed curd 300, water or milk 700, salt 10.
A drink of cranberries, lingonberries or rowanberries
The cranberries are washed and pressed through a sieve. Water is poured over the pressed residue and brought to the boil, strained through a sieve, cooled, added back to the original juice, combined with strawberry or apple juice and honey. The mixture is then placed in a cold spot for 4-5 days to infuse. It is prepared in the same way with lingonberries or rowanberries. Cranberries, lingonberries or rowanberries 40, honey 20, water 200, strawberry or apple juice 10.
Shere pochyzh olma dene (lingonberries with apples)
The lingonberries are sorted and washed. The stalks and the cores with the seeds are removed from the apples, which are cut into slices. The prepared lingonberries are covered with water, sugar is added and they are boiled for 8-10 minutes. The prepared apples are then added and cooked for another 5 minutes until done. Apples 300, lingonberries 288, granulated sugar 400, water 300.
Shere pochyzh muy dene (lingonberries with honey)
The sorted lingonberries are washed, honey is added, everything is mixed and boiled for 5 minutes. Served chilled. Lingonberries 61, honey 45.
Lingonberries soaked in their own juice
Ripe washed lingonberries are poured into an enamelled pot so that they fill 1/5 of its volume. The pot is shaken and the berries are tamped down by pressing on them with a lid slightly smaller than the pot. Then the same amount of berries is added again and tamped down once more. The operation is repeated until the pot is filled with juice to the brim. After that it is covered with a lid and left for 4-5 days. During this time the berries settle, and more are added. The pot is then covered tightly, a weight is placed on top and it is put in a cool place to mature (for about a month). Soaked lingonberries are served with meat dishes.
Mari-style pelmeni
Ingredients (for 5 servings of pelmeni). For the dough: 300 g of wheat flour, 1/2 egg, 100 ml of water, 5 g each (1/2 teaspoon) of salt and sugar. For shaping: 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 egg. For the filling: 600 g of fresh shredded cabbage, 50 g of chopped carrot, 50 g of chopped onion, 50 g of margarine, 1 egg, salt to taste. To serve: 50 g of butter or 150 g of sour cream.
We make the pelmeni from unleavened dough. The finished dough is divided into 25 g pieces and rolled out into thin round discs. We place 30 g of filling in the middle of each disc and pinch the edges together in a "rope" pattern, giving the dumpling the shape of a crescent.
For the filling we cut the prepared white cabbage into strips (if the cabbage is bitter, we drop it into boiling water for 2-3 minutes), spread it in a layer up to 3 cm thick on a baking sheet with melted fat and roast it until done in the oven at 180-200 C. The prepared carrot and onion are cut into strips and fried with fat in a pan until golden. Hard-boiled eggs are finely chopped. We add the fried vegetables, the chopped eggs and salt to the cooled cooked cabbage and mix everything well.
The finished dumplings are dropped into boiling salted water, brought to the boil and simmered gently for 10-12 minutes. When the pelmeni float to the surface, we lift them out with a slotted spoon onto a dish and serve them with butter or sour cream.
Interesting facts
- Among the Mari people the potato is regarded as the "second bread", and in the number of potato dishes Mari cookery is probably surpassed only by Belarusian.
- The Mari make wide use of dairy products. Many tasty dishes are made from them (shorval, tuara, curd balls in milk, a drink made from curd and others).
- Oat flour and various grains - buckwheat, pearl barley, peas - are consumed in large quantities. Anyone who tries them even once will remember the Mari dishes salmaginde, egerche, oat kissel, koman melna, puchymysh and soups for ever.